Machine Knitting

Knitting by machine is done in two different ways - warp and weft. Warp knits stretch less than weft knits, and are run resistant. In warp knitting, many pieces of yarn are zigzagged together. Weft knitting is more common. In weft knitting, garments are made from the one yarn with the stitches being joined horizontally, and the end garment stretches more.

THE STOCKING FRAME

The world's first industrial knitting machine, the stocking frame, was invented in 1589 by William Lee. Tradition holds that he invented this machine due to his frustration at his lover's obsession with knitting. His machine uses a needle with a hook which imitates the movements of a handknitter by opening and closing at successive stages of the process.

This machine produced unattractive and coarse garments, but achieved its objective of speeding up the production of knitter garments. Lee soon realised the effectiveness of his invention, and applied to Queen Elizabeth for a patent, which, after a visit to Lee's factory, she did not grant due to the unattractiveness of his garments. Lee continued to work on his knitting machine, improving the quality of the garments it was producing. 7 years later, he presented Queen Elizabeth with a pair of beautiful silk knitted stockings, yet still Queen Elizabeth refused to grant patent, this time on the grounds that Lee's invention would put hundreds of home knitters out of business.

This second refusual led to Lee leaving Britain and settling in France. Lee enjoyed success in France, until the assasination of Henry IV led to his demise. Lee died in 1610 and his workmen returned to England and set up a knitting machine factory in Nottinghamshire. It was not until the late 18th century that Lee's machine was established and brought into the mainstream.

Modern knitting machine are still based on the principle of Lee's machine, invented over 400 years ago - just as the technique of handknitting has changed little since the 16th century.