Knitting

LEARN TO KNIT WITH ERIBE

If you are an expert knitter, or don't know plain from purl then this section is designed to interest you. For the expert knitter there are interesting alternative methods of various processes which you might like to try out, and knitting tips and hints which may be new to you. The beginnner - and this section is designed primarily for the beginner - will find sufficient knowledge to allow you to become an expert knitter.

Most people learn to knit when they are children, and develop, to some extent, a style of their own. If you are learning to knit later in life, it is a very good idea to try to work out the instructions here yourself, before asking a friend who is an expert knitter and asking them to correct your first efforts and show you the movements. After you have learned to handle your needles, go back to the instructions here which you should then find quite easily to follow.

Please click on any of the images to enlarge

Casting On

Casting on is the very first thing you have to do in order to start knitting. It is the means of forming the first row of loops which is the basis for the rest of the fabric. The thumb method is the most satisfactory. Casting on by the thumb method produces a firm but elastic edge that is not noticeably different from the rest of the fabric.

The thumb method of casting on is most commonly done by the double thumb method:

TO CAST ON USING THE DOUBLE THUMB METHOD:

Leave an end of wool - about a yard for the average garment, then make a loop as shown on the right. Pass the short end round the left thumb and knit it with the yarn from the ball of wool. Repeat the process for the number of stitches required.

TO CAST ON USING TWO NEEDLES:

Altough this is a very common method, it is very unsatisfactory unless the first row of knitting is worked into the backs of the stitches - a slow and tedious method for most people. But if this is not done the edge will look loopy and untidy.

Take the two needles and one end of the yarn, then make a loop into which you should put both needles, the right under the left. Pass the wool between the needles, and take the wool thus made through the first loop on to the right hand needle. Pass it back on to the left hand needle and repeat this process for the number of stitches required.

Stitches

There are a number of different stitches used in knitting, and the following serves as a guide to the most common stitches that you will come across.

1. KNIT OR PLAIN STITCH

Cast on the required number of stitches and hold the needle with the stitches on the left hand. The other needle is held in the right hand and the point is inserted from right to left through the first loop. Pass the yarn, which for plain knitting is always at the back of the work, between the needle points and draw a loop through. Continue in this way to the end of the row.

2. GARTER STITCH:

Garter stitch is the fabric produced by knitting every row in knit stitch and is sometimes referred to as 'plain knitting'.

Plain knitting in garter stitch is not to be confused with 'plain smooth fabric' or 'stocking stitch' which is one row knit, one row purl.

3. PURL STITCH:

Cast on the necessary number of stitches and hold the work in the left hand. With the other needle held in the right hand, you insert the point from the back to front under the left hand needle and through the first loop. Pass the yarn, which for purl knitting is always held in front of the work, over and round the point of the right hand needle and draw a loop through, letting the old loop drop off. Continue in this way to the end of the row. Purling every row produces garter stitch just as knitting every row does.

4. STOCKING STITCH OR PLAIN SMOOTH FABRIC:

Stocking stitch consists of alternate rows of plain and purl stitch. Where the purl side is used as the right side of the fabric it is known as reversed stocking stitch.

5. RIB STITCH:

Consist of alternate stitches or groups of stitches in plain and purl. This method of knitting contracts the fabric while making it at the same time very elastic, nad so it is used for close fitting garments like vests and for fitting parts of garments such as welts, wrist bands and neck bands. The extent of the contraction depends on the proportion of knit stitches to purl stitches. When it is even, the contraction is greatest, and is reduced when the difference becomes greater. A k. 6, p. 1 rib, for instance, will have practically no effect on the width of the garment, whereas a k. 6, p. 6 rib would contract it considerably. To retain elasticity in the edge, cast off the purl stitches purlwise and knit knit stitches knitwise (see CASTING OFF).

6. MOSS STITCH:

Moss Stitch is a reversible stitch showing simple plain and purl stitches alternated horizontally and vertically. In other words, when working on an uneven number of stitches, as it usual to work this stitch, work k. 1, p. 1 alternately all along the row, ending with k. 1, and repeat this row for the length required. If, however, moss stitch has to be worked on an even number of stitches it will be necessary to work k. 1, p. 1 in the first row and p. 1, k. 1 in the next row throughout the whole fabric in order to alternate the plain and purl stitches.

This method of alternating single and groups of stitches can be varied in many ways to produce many ineresting and fancy patterns.

Casting Off

Casting off is usually the last thing you do ir oder to finish knitting. It is the process of removing the stitches from the needles when you have finished knitting that part of your work, fixing the work so that it does not unravel when taken off the needles. Unless you are told otherwise, be careful to cast off at the same tension as the garment is knitted.

When you are casting off children's garments and garments which have to be pulled over the head, it is a good plan to cast off with a needle that is two sizes larger than the ones being used to knit the garment. In babies' vests, jerseys or dresses, where there is no opening at the neck, constant stretching tends to break the edge. To prevent this you can pick up, knit and cast off one stitch between each of the stitches on the needle.

Always cast off in the appropriate stitch, that is, in purl on the purl side, in knit on the knit side. If you cast off in rib, the you must cast off both in plain and purl according to the rib. Where the instructions allow for the casting off to be doen on either the knit or the purl side is is better, generally, to cast off purlwise on the purl side. The edge thus formed will have less tendency to roll than if it had been cast off on the knit side, also, the edge will be less visible on the right side of the work.

SIMPLE CASTING OFF:

Knit the first two stitches, then, with the left hand needle, lift the first stitch over the second and continue knitting and slipping in this way until the last stitch. Then break off the end and pull the wool through the last loop.

Edges

To make a neat edge to a row of knitting, especially if is to be sewn up, the best way to knit the first and last stitches of every row, even when the remaining stitches are to be purled or worked in a fancy pattern. You may have to add an extra seam stitch, but it must be kept seperate from the pattern and knitted in every row. This method produces a series of kmobs all along the edge which are easy to match together when sewing up.

For edges which are to show, the best method is to slip the first stitch knitwise and knit the last stitch of every row. When working in k. 1, p. 1 rib you will make a firm neat border by slipping the first stitch and knitting the last stitch.

Decreasing and Narrowing

No garment can be knitted without a certain amount of shaping. Shaping occurs when the jumper widens above the waist ribbing, or the sleeve is pulled into a fairly tight cuff band by ribbing at the wrist. The sleeves themselvs must be shaped, and so must the sides and armholes of the garment. There are, of course, many other parts of a knitted garment that have to be shaped; but these are among the most usual instances.

To shape a garment, knitting has to be decreased or narrowed at certain places. There are several ways of doing this, as you may see below: -

1. By changing the size of the needles:

For instance, if the instructions of a pattern tell you to knit a garment on No. 8 needles, but the measurements given are too big for you, you could knit the garment on a size smaller needles, and so make the whole garment smaller, because this method alters the tension and consequently the width of the fabric (see TENSION)

2. By changing the stitch:

For instance, the waist ribbing of vests, yokes, neck bands, etc., can be made to fit neatly by changing from stocking stitch or a similar flat fabric to a k. 1, p. 1 rib or other rib without changing the number of stitches.

3. By reducing the number of stitches:

a. By knitting two stitches together, thus turning two stitches into one (see diagram on the right). This method is generally used when the number is decreased suddenly, as at the waist of a frock. For instance, if you have 100 stitches at the hem, and need 50 stitches for the bodice, you would knit two together right across the row at the waist.

b. By knitting one stitch, slipping the next, then passing the slipped stitch over the knitted one. Referred to as sl. 1, k. 1, p.s.s.o. This produces a slope from right to left, while the knit two together method xplained above produces the opposite slope. So when decreases have to converge, as in flares etc., care should be taken to make them symmetrical by combining the two methods. 

Increasing and Widening

Increasing or widening a garment shapes the knitting. The simplest method of increasing or widening is to knit into the same stitch twice to make an additional stitch.

However, there are three main ways of increasing the width of a garment: -

1. By changing the size of the needles

In this case, the opposite of the method suggested in DECREASING AND NAROWING (above) holds good. That is, that when the instructions tell you to knit the garment on No. 10 needles, but the measurements given are too small for you, the garment can be made larger by knitting it on larger sized needles, according to how much bigger you wish to make the jumper. This method alters the tension  and consequently the width of the fabric (see TENSION).

2. By changing the stitch

For instance, by changing from rib to stocking stitch, or a similar fabric.

3. By increasing the number of stitches by adopting one of the three following methods:

a. By knitting twice into one stitch - This is the most usual method of increasing, but, as it produces an irregular effect, it should only be used at the edge of a garment where it will not be seen because it will be sewn into the seam. It is a useful method to use, however, when it is necessary to count your increases as it can so easily be seen.

b. Making a stitch by knitting the thread between the stitches - This can be done to make the increase fairly invisible by picking up the thread with the left hand needle and kntting into the back of it. This twists the stitch and closes up the hole which otherwise would be made, and which would spoil the evenness of the fabric you are knitting.

c. Making a stitch by knitting into the stitch in the row below as well as the stitch itself - This method of making a stitch is quite neat and fairly invisible, and can be used, if necessary, in the middle of the fabric, where it will be almost unnoticeable.

Picking Up Stitches

It is very often necessary to add bands to the necks, fronts or sleeve edges of garments, and the most elastic way is to pick up the stitches and knit the necessary band, rather than make it seperately and sew it on. Hold the work in the left hand and insert the needle into the edge, pass the yarn round the point of the needle and hook a loop through. Repeat for the number of stitches to be picked up.

You will sometimes find it difficult evenly the exact number of stitches stated in the instructions, in this case, pick up as many as will produce an even band. Then decrease or increase on the first knitting row to the required number. Generally, one or two more or less will makle no difference. It is usual to pick up stitches with the right side of the work facing.

Seams

Seams in knitted garments may be made by any of the following methods according to the type of garment. When the garment has to be pulled over the head, and in all childrens garments, the seams must be elastic or they will break.

1. Oversewing

You should place the two pieces to be joined with the wrong sides facing outwards. Then, using yarn to match the garment, oversew the edges, pulling the thread fairly tight, and matching the rows as much as possible.

2. Backstitching

If the edges of a garment are uneven, it is better to backstitch them a short distance from the edge and press the seam open.  

3. Edge to Edge Method

If this method is to be satisfactory, te edges of the fabric must be neat. Hold the two pieces flat with the edges meeting and the right sides facing the worker. Join by taking one loop from each side alternately, using the same yarn as the garment. If it is well done this kind of seam is elastic and practically invisible.

4. Machine Stitching

Tailored knitted garments look far better if the seams are maching stitched. This method is not, however, suitable for garments that have to be pulled on because the seams are so inelastic. Machine about one-eighth of an inch and press seams open.

Shoulder seams are best taped, or bound with bias binding, because they tend to stretch in wear and ruin the shape of the garment. You should also bind your armhole seams, or else backstitch them, and press the seams open.

Buttonholes

Buttonholes are slits through the fabric. Most buttohole bands will be 5 or 7 rows, with the buttonhole placed on row 3 or 4. Buttonholes are usually vertical or horizontal. Follow the guide below to see how to make some of the most common buttonholes.

VERTICAL BUTTONHOLES:

These are most suitable when the pull is downwards, as in knickers, buster suits or pocket flaps, to take some examples. Vertical buttonholes are very simple to make. When the right position is reached the work is divided and each side is worked seperately to the required depth.

HORIZONTAL BUTTONHOLE:

The majority of buttonholes are made horizontally. Always be careful to keep them on the small side for the button used, as they stretch considerably in wear. Work to the required position, then cast off 2, 3 or more stitches according to what size buttonhole you want, then finish the row in pattern. On the return row cast on the same number of stitches exactly above where you cast them off. Buttonhole stitch round the hole to neaten.

SMALL BUTTONHOLES:

For very small button holes the holes can be made as follows: make 1, knit 2 together. On the return row, knit the make 1 and continue in the ordinary way.

CUT BUTTONHOLES:

If you do not wish to knit a buttonhole it is quite satisfactory to cut one of more stitches in the fabric and buttonhole stitch around them

BUTTON LOOPS:

A very simple and effective way of making loops at the edge of an opening on a knitted garment is to cast on a number of extra stitches according to the length of the loop required. Knit them on the return row, cast them off in the next, and sew the loop into position.

Buttonholes

Buttons

It is often difficult to get buttons to match knitted garments, but it is quite easy to make knitted buttons which are very satisfactory. They have an added advantage that they do not break when washing.

Here are three different methods of making buttons from which you can make your own choice:

1. Knit a small square of stocking stitch on size 14 needles. Cast off and run a thread all round the edge. Stretch over a wooden button mould, draw up and fasten off.

2. Knit two small squares as above and oversew them together, leaving a small opening. Stuff the button with short ends of wool, and close the opening and finish off by sewing a line of backstitching all round the edge. See that your button is in good shape before finishing off.

3. Cover linen buttons by oversewing them or buttonholing with a machine or contrasting yarn.

Elastic Used in Knitting

ELASTIC BRAID:

Elastic braid is easily the most satisfactory material for the tops of knickers, skirts and other garments which must be supported at the waist. Elastic braid is sold in rayon, cotton and wool and takes the place of the ribbed well of the garment. Knit into the row of holes along the edge. Use double wool for extra strength and break off one thread at the end of the rowm, then proceed in the ordinary way.

ELASTIC CASING:

If elastic has to be applied to skirts or shorts, the best way to run it through the waist is to make a crochet casing at the back. Hold the wrong side of the work towards you and begin with a slip stitch at the top edge of the ribbing; * make 4, 5, 6 or more chain according to the width of the elastic, miss one or more ribs, slip stitch into the rib several rows below (again according to the size of the elastic) and repeat from * all along the waist line.

ELASTIC THREAD:

Fine elastic thread, which can be bought by the yard or spool, is excellent for threading into the back of the ribbing to support garments such as skirts. It is particularly suitable for baby and childrenswear because the pressure is spread out and there is no constriction. Use a large eyed wool needle and take care to sew the ends back so they do not pull out.

Holes in Knitted Fabric

Holes in knitted fabric, either for threading through ribbon or as part of a pattern, can be made in any of the following ways: -

1. Wool Forward - this is generally used between knit stitches. The extra loop is knitted in the ordinary way in the next row, and thus forms a hole.

2. Wool Round Needle - this is the same procedure as wool forward, but is generally used between purl stitches.

3. Wool Over Needle - this method of making a hole is generally used between a purl and a knit stitch, and consists of passing the wool over the right hand needle instead of between the two needles, to bring it to the correct position for knitting the next stitch.

Any of these three methods may be used when the instructions state 'm. 1' according to whether the preceeding and subsequent stitches are knitted or purled.

Hems

Very satisfactory hems can be made on knitted dresses and skirts. They can be made either plain or with a picot edge. Knit in the ordinary way for double the width of the hem - 4 ins. for a 2-in hem, and so on - then fold in half, and knit one stitch from the needle and one stitch from the cast on edge all along the row. Care must be taken to match the stitches or the hem will twist.

Picot Hem - knit for the width of the hem required, then make a row of holes as follows: * k. 1, m. 1,k.2tog.; rep from *. Several stitches can be knitted between the picots if preferred. Knit for a similar depth then fold along the row of holes and proceed as for the ordinary hem.

On the other hand it is better in many types of knitted skirts, not to have a turned up hem. One of the essential features of knitted skirt is that the weight of it must be supported at the waist, so that the skirt does not drop and lengthen. If there is a double fabric hem at the bottom of the skirt, it may drag the skirt out of shape.

If a hem effect is desired, as it often is on a child's frock, on a band of contrasting stitchwork, say moss stitch, at the bottom will give you the required effect.

Tension

Tension means the number of stitches across and down the rows to the square inch of knitter fabric. The mastery of hand knitting largely depends on an accurate knowledge of tension and how to adjust it to the size of the garment. Always knit a tension sample before casting on for your garment. This sample should be big enough to enable you to measure easily - about 2 ins. square - unless a large elaborate pattern is being worked, in which case it is worth while knitting a larger sample. After a time, you will know if your knitting tension varies from the average and will be able to make the necessary adjustments to instructions.

Tension Size Table

The following table gives average tension in a stocking stitch: -

                            Size Needle        2-ply                 3-ply                    4-ply

     12                   9sts.                 8 1/2sts.                   8sts.              to 1 inch

     11                8 1/2sts.                8sts.                    7 1/2sts.          to 1 inch

     10                   8sts.                     8sts.                      7sts.             to 1 inch

      9                 7 1/2sts.               7sts.                     6 1/2sts.          to 1 inch

      8                    7sts.                   6 1/2sts.                 6sts.             to 1 inch

      7                 6 1/2sts.                6sts.                     5 1/2sts.         to 1 inch

Large open and fancy patterns are very difficult to measure for tension, so use the above as a guide and work a sample in stocking stitch to see whether your tension is average. If your stocking stitch is tighter or looser than the average adjust it by using larger or smaller needles, larger if tighter, smaller if looser. Remember that one size differences in needles makes a difference of about half a stitch per inch in tension, and that if your garment should measure 36 ins. at a tension of 7 to the inch, and you obtain only 6 stitches, your garment will measure 42 ins. Rows te nsion occassionally varies with the individual knitter, and if you find that although your stitch tension is accurate you obtain more or fewer rows to the inch than stated in the instructions, make adjustments in the number of rows.

When actually measuring a tension sample, care should be taken not to overlook half stitches and half rows; a half row can be easily recognised; a half row has to be judged.

Making Up

A garment can be completley spoiled if it is badly or carelessly made up. It is well worth your while to take time and trouble over this last stage.

Begin by pinning out the pieces of the garment to the right measurements on an ironing blanket. Now press them lightly on the wrong side, using a hot iron on a damp cloth. Do not press any ribing. A well-knitted garment should need very little pressing except at the seams, and more harm than good is done by over pressing. It stretches the yarn and spoils the surface, especially of pattern stitches.

Now join shoulder, side and sleeve seams (see SEAMS above). Tack the sleeves into the armholes, taking care to sew the centre of the top of the sleeve to the shoulder seam. In cases of garments knitted for more than the average figure, the front armholes are sometimes made 1/2 in. to 1 in. longer than the back. In this case, attach the centre of the top of the sleeve to spot where the shoulder seam would be if front and back were the same depth. The fullnes, if any, should be brought well to the top of the sleeve and gathered evenly before being sewn in. Use the backstitch seam and take out the tacking thread.  

If the garment is knitted in stripes you must take great care to match the bodice stripes with the sleeve stripes. In this case, you should use the flat seam (see SEAMS above) so that the work can be done from the right side. This applies equally to pattern stripes as well as colour stripes.

When putting buttons on to a hand-knitter garment sew each button through a small linen or pearl button at the back of the fabric. This will prevent the knitting from being pulled out of place and the yarn stretched and broken.

Shoulder seams should be taped or bound with bias binding to prevent stretching. If this is not done, the sleeves will drop out and the whole garment will be pulled out of shape.

Wherever particular strain is put on buttons it is best to back the knitting with tape or ribbon and sew the buttons through the double thickness. The buttonholes should also be backed; the holes cut through the tape and the two thicknesses oversewen together.

Bands - Use finer needles for all bands which have to be sewn to collars, cuffs, fronts and so on. This will produce a firmer fabric than the rest of the garment. Bands should always be made slightly shorter than the edge they are to be sewn to, and should be stretched to fit while they are being sewn on.

Collars - When sewing on collars, fold the collar in half and mark the fold with a pin, do the same with the neck edge and commencing from the centre back, oversew the two edges together from the right side so that when the collar is turned over the seam is covered.

Grafting - Grafting is the name given to joining without a ridge the stitches from two seperate needles. The stitches should be divided equally on two needles and placed with the wrong sides facing one another. A length of wool is now threaded through a wool needle for the grafting (this can usually be an end left when breaking off the knitting wool).

Proceed thus: - pass the wool needle purlwise through the first stitch on the front needle but do not slip the stitch off, then pass the wool needle knitwise through the first stitch on the back needle but do not slip the stitch off.

* Pass the wool needle knitwise through the first stitch on the front needle and slip off, pass wool needle purlwise through the second loop on the front needle and but do not slip off. Now pass the wool needle purlwise through the first stitch on the back needle and slip off, pass the wool needle knitwise through the second stitch on the back needle but do not slip off. Repeat from * until all the loops are worked off.

The illustration above shows the knitting needles correctly placed with the wool needle in the purlwise position through the first stitch on the front needle.

Many knitters prefer to slip the stitches off the needle before grafting and this is quite satisfactory if the stitches are pressed immediately to prevent 'running'. The second illustration shows the progress of the grafting wool through two sets of stitches slipped off the needles in this way. The instructions given are for grafting in stocking stitch, on the knit side. It is also possible, although rather more difficult, to graft in stocking stitch on the purl side, or in garter stitch or rib.

Fair Isle Knitting

Fair Isle is the name given to knitting in a number of different colours in pattern. The name is derived from Fair Isle in the Shetlands from where many patterens originate. For more information on Fair Isle, please view our Fair Isle information page.

This form of knitting is quite simple, providing the different strands of wool are prevented from becoming entangled; to avoid this proceed as follows: -

Hold the knitting in the ordinary way with one colour (natural for instance) held in the right hand as for plain knitting. Another colour, say blue, is held in the left hand over the middle finger, well away from the knitting. The natural stitches are worked in the ordinary way, passing over the blue wool which is held out by the left hand, thus 'stranding' it at the back of the work.

To knit a blue stitch, the natural wool is kept in the left hand and the point of the right-hand needle is passed through the next stitch for knitting, then over the blue wool and under it from right to left to right, pulling the wool through.

When the wool has to be taken across the back for a number of stitches, the 'weaving' method should be used. Hold the colour to be woven in the left hand, then work as above, but at every alternate stitch pass the point of the right hand needle through the stitch, then under the other colour - say blue - pass the original wool over the point of the right hand needle, then draw it through, allowing the blue wool to drop opff. Always hold the colour to be woven in the left hand.